Farfalle

Farfalle means "butterflies," and the shape is exactly that — a rectangle of pasta pinched hard at the center so the sides flare into wings, though English speakers, seeing formalwear rather than insects, call them bow ties. They date to the 16th century in the northern regions of Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna, where they're still known by the dialect name strichetti, and they were born of thrift, pinched by hand from the trimmings of egg-pasta making. The shape scales by name: tiny farfalline for broths, oversized farfalloni for rustic sauces. It is one of the few classic shapes prized as much for looking cheerful as for how it eats.

A pinched bow — a small rectangle, often with two ruffled or zigzag-cut edges, gathered tight at the middle so the center is dense and pleated while the wings stay thin. That built-in contrast is the point: every piece cooks to two textures at once, a firmer knot at the core and tender, ruffled edges. Made from semolina and water when dried, sometimes with egg when fresh, and cut larger (farfalloni) or smaller (farfalline) without changing its nature.

The pleated center and winged edges are a sauce trap of an unusual kind: the folds catch and hold bits of a chunky dressing, and the flat wings carry a smooth one. Farfalle is happiest with sauces that have something to grab — peas and cream, flaked salmon, a light vegetable ragù — and it holds its shape and bite well cold, which is why it's a mainstay of pasta salad. The one thing it resists is a thin, uniform sauce, which slides off the wings and skips the folds.

1. 01Con piselli e pannaPeas, cream, and often prosciutto or pancetta; the northern classic.
2. 02Al salmoneSmoked or fresh salmon in a light cream; a farfalle signature.
3. 03Insalata di pastaCold with tomato, mozzarella, and herbs; it holds its bite for hours.
4. 04Alla cremascaA Lombard curiosity: amaretti, butter, and sage.